Chevy trike

[King Herald]

I’ve discovered the Edelbrock four barrel carb I have won’t fit, the frame is too narrow. I think I built it us in fa. Holley carb. Which mounts differently.

So, I decided to use a Weber 38dgas type carb, physically smaller and really too small for a motor this big, but it’ll probably be ample for now.

A new 38, from Weber is an eye watering £300++ but looking on eBay I see chinesium copies, for £75 or so, so I ordered one of them. It arrived yesterday.

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I’ll have to make an adapter, but it should do the trick. Maybe later I can make a trick manifold and mount two on there.

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[King Herald]

I’ve pontificated about where to put the fuel pump, but under the electrics box seemed about the best place. Copper pipe will carry the fuel to where it needs to be.

The pipe is only roughly in place for now, will need some proper clips on it when the time comes. Fuel tank is going in the ‘bed’ at the back.

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[Davey the punk]

Looking good

[ratwing]

FWIW I had a Rover v8 manifold adapted to take one of those (although it was a manual not auto choke) on an old Range Rover and although it felt down on power a bit, the fuel economy was amazing - the guy who did the manifold and re-jetted the carb said he got 30 mpg from his RR and from memory we got something like 28mpg compared to 15mpg on the twin SU's.
There's someone on Youtube who's put twin 38DG's on a Rover V8, might be worth a look?
Again on Youtube, ThunderHead289 has some videos of a V8 running well on a little carb from something like a leaf blower so you should be ok with the fake Weber.

[King Herald]

So, dickhead moment of the day. I finished the adapter plate, made a gasket, fitted the studs etc….then realised that the carb can’t sit flat because it has stuff that pokes out the bottom 15mm or so when the throttle is opened.

So, 15mm spacer required. I see 6mm spacers readily available but they’re like £13 apiece, so I need to find some material suitable and make one meself.

If I didn’t balls up every job I did, and have to do them again at least one more time, I’d probably be on the road by now.

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[King Herald]

FWIW I had a Rover v8 manifold adapted to take one of those (although it was a manual not auto choke) on an old Range Rover and although it felt down on power a bit, the fuel economy was amazing - the guy who did the manifold and re-jetted the carb said he got 30 mpg from his RR and from memory we got something like 28mpg compared to 15mpg on the twin SU's.
There's someone on Youtube who's put twin 38DG's on a Rover V8, might be worth a look?
Again on Youtube, ThunderHead289 has some videos of a V8 running well on a little carb from something like a leaf blower so you should be ok with the fake Weber.

I put one on my old Morris hot rod, with RV8. Made an adaptor, with a 15mm spacer, hooked the carb up and got it ready to run. I was just bumping the motor over with the starter, to check the timing, and it fired up and sat there idling perfectly. No adjustments made, no jets changed, just perfect, straight off of eBay.

[King Herald]

I built a passenger backrest/header tank support, to mount the header tank higher than the motor and rad. There’s not really anywhere else it will fit properly, so two birds killed with one stone.

My fingers are getting a bit weak lately, so my tig is getting a bit rubbish, not that it was ever brilliant before…

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[King Herald]

And some chocolate paint splashed on. For some reason it wouldn’t let me add it to the last post.

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[Davey the punk]

looking good

[King Herald]

Trying to keep some momentum going, so I ordered some handlebar switchgear off Ebay, 1250 Bandit I think.

With just four functions, hi/lo beam, horn, turn and headlight flasher, I couldn’t work out why there was about 20 wires running to it. For some reason every operation had a separate power wire running up the handlebar to the switch.

So, I have now cunningly reduced it to 1 power supply, and the headlight flasher just jumps directly across the Hi/Lo switch, so half as many wires in the loom. I shall use relays on the horn and headlight so the wires can be thin. The wires will run internally through the handlebars so lesser is better.

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I thought the ‘bars looked good on the mock-up, but not so sure now, they can be changed though, if I feel the need.

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