Is that a trike frame I spotted in the last picture ??
V8 top end & timing chest rebuild.
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yammy1300
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1130cc
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VmaxRik
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1130cc wrote:Can I berate you for putting the head shiny side down?
Is/was that a Mallory twin spark that has had a Pertronix conversion?
I have acquired an unconverted one.
No, you can't LOL....it's placed gently on cream carpet, well it was when it was in the house.
The Mallory dissy is an all electronic super duper thing that will set fire to a bucket of p*ss at ten paces....it's brilliant.
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This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
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VmaxRik
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Solid engineering background from Ford. Seem to have have spent the rest of my life up to my neck in engines and gearboxes, so you kind of get used to them.
The trike never had any planning, not even a sketch...it just sort of formed in my head as I went along. So I just listened to the little voices and built it accordingly.....Welcome to the asylum.
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The trike never had any planning, not even a sketch...it just sort of formed in my head as I went along. So I just listened to the little voices and built it accordingly.....Welcome to the asylum.
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This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
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VmaxRik
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To be honest RW I've not heard about it.
If you can find anything about any antifreeze problems, please put it on the site...every days a learning day.
The composite gaskets are going in the bin. They may work fine for the EFI models they were intended for, but i've had some problems with them on the 3.5 carb engine so I'm off back to tin ones.
Tin head gaskets are 0.5 mm and the composites 1.5 mm thick. Doesn't sound like it would make a huge difference, but it does. They make the engine very soft power wise due to the loss of compression ratio...very smooth, but very soft. The composites where really designed for use with the 4.0 and up with their stretch head bolts as opposed to mine with the old fashioned heavy duty solid head bolts...clickety click on the torque wrench as opposed to plus 90 deg', then another 90 deg'.
Even the composite valley gaskets been a problem. Because it's so thick I've had to keep torquing the inlet manifold down because the retaining bolts have become just about finger tight. I can always hear when they need nipping back up, 'cos from a cold start it takes 30 seconds or so to fuel the cylinders properly, never had that problem with the correct tin ones.
It's been an interesting experiment to see if it would work or not. But for me it hasn't, so as I say, I'm going back to using what was supposed to be fitted in the first place....but that's just my take on things.
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If you can find anything about any antifreeze problems, please put it on the site...every days a learning day.
The composite gaskets are going in the bin. They may work fine for the EFI models they were intended for, but i've had some problems with them on the 3.5 carb engine so I'm off back to tin ones.
Tin head gaskets are 0.5 mm and the composites 1.5 mm thick. Doesn't sound like it would make a huge difference, but it does. They make the engine very soft power wise due to the loss of compression ratio...very smooth, but very soft. The composites where really designed for use with the 4.0 and up with their stretch head bolts as opposed to mine with the old fashioned heavy duty solid head bolts...clickety click on the torque wrench as opposed to plus 90 deg', then another 90 deg'.
Even the composite valley gaskets been a problem. Because it's so thick I've had to keep torquing the inlet manifold down because the retaining bolts have become just about finger tight. I can always hear when they need nipping back up, 'cos from a cold start it takes 30 seconds or so to fuel the cylinders properly, never had that problem with the correct tin ones.
It's been an interesting experiment to see if it would work or not. But for me it hasn't, so as I say, I'm going back to using what was supposed to be fitted in the first place....but that's just my take on things.
.
This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
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ratwing
- Part of the Furniture
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OAT antifreeze - I had a quick look and found this lot but bear in mind it is off the internet:
Appeared in some cars around 1995, by 2005 pretty much every new car can use it;
Don't use it with brass/copper/bronze because they'll corrode;
Some rubbers and plastics are attacked, silicone and Viton were mentioned several times (apparently Rover K series engine's inlet manifolds started leaking in the late 1990's after using this);
It attacks lead so radiators made with high-lead solder leak eventually;
Don't let the coolant level drop because if air gets into the system it appears to promote rather than prevent corrosion;
Providing the manufacturers recommendations are followed OAT has a 5 year life compared to 2 years for traditional glycol antifreeze;
It cavitates more readily in the water pump than glycol antifreeze;
The FBHVC say don't use it in older vehicles;
Water in the oil is bad enough but OAT in the oil causes a lot more damage (catastrophic they said) than glycol types and quickly too.
Interestingly Fernox make a central heating inhibitor called Alphi II, its safe with brass/copper/bronze/lead/iron/aluminium/seal rubber and so on and has a 25 year life. They don't specifically recommend it for cars but say it does exceed the British Standard for automotive antifreeze and theres a guy in the Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club whos been using it for 15 years in his Rollers and an old Rover without any problems.
So, to use it or not? I'm tempted to go for Fernox next time I change my antifreeze, apparently its cheaper too. I didn't find any specific mention of Rover V8 head gasket failures but didn't spent a lot of time researching this post either. Is there any sign of corrosion in yours Rik?
Appeared in some cars around 1995, by 2005 pretty much every new car can use it;
Don't use it with brass/copper/bronze because they'll corrode;
Some rubbers and plastics are attacked, silicone and Viton were mentioned several times (apparently Rover K series engine's inlet manifolds started leaking in the late 1990's after using this);
It attacks lead so radiators made with high-lead solder leak eventually;
Don't let the coolant level drop because if air gets into the system it appears to promote rather than prevent corrosion;
Providing the manufacturers recommendations are followed OAT has a 5 year life compared to 2 years for traditional glycol antifreeze;
It cavitates more readily in the water pump than glycol antifreeze;
The FBHVC say don't use it in older vehicles;
Water in the oil is bad enough but OAT in the oil causes a lot more damage (catastrophic they said) than glycol types and quickly too.
Interestingly Fernox make a central heating inhibitor called Alphi II, its safe with brass/copper/bronze/lead/iron/aluminium/seal rubber and so on and has a 25 year life. They don't specifically recommend it for cars but say it does exceed the British Standard for automotive antifreeze and theres a guy in the Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club whos been using it for 15 years in his Rollers and an old Rover without any problems.
So, to use it or not? I'm tempted to go for Fernox next time I change my antifreeze, apparently its cheaper too. I didn't find any specific mention of Rover V8 head gasket failures but didn't spent a lot of time researching this post either. Is there any sign of corrosion in yours Rik?
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VmaxRik
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Mmmm...Doesn't make for good reading RW.
Thankfully/luckily the orange OAT antifreeze has only been in it since last summer (last time I had the inlet manifold off) so fingers crossed it hasn't had the chance to attack anything. I bought the stuff with all the best intentions, bit more expensive than blue or green but lasts twice as long. It's NOT going back in, I'll go back to Bluecol when I re-fill it, might not last as long but at least it works with old engines properly.
Found some of the Fernox on eBay. Quite expensive, but if it last as long as you say, it's much cheaper over the long term.....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FERNOX-ALPHI- ... 3f2eca603c
Appreciate your input.
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Thankfully/luckily the orange OAT antifreeze has only been in it since last summer (last time I had the inlet manifold off) so fingers crossed it hasn't had the chance to attack anything. I bought the stuff with all the best intentions, bit more expensive than blue or green but lasts twice as long. It's NOT going back in, I'll go back to Bluecol when I re-fill it, might not last as long but at least it works with old engines properly.
Found some of the Fernox on eBay. Quite expensive, but if it last as long as you say, it's much cheaper over the long term.....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FERNOX-ALPHI- ... 3f2eca603c
Appreciate your input.
.
This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
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ratwing
- Part of the Furniture
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- Joined: Sun May 12, 2013 2:51 pm
- Location: Strood
I think its like a lot of things that have been 'improved', like modern multigrade oils for instance. A full synthetic 0W/20 might be just what the doctor ordered for a souped-up Subaru but despite being a higher spec on paper it'd kill my engine (an older version of yours) because it wasn't designed to be lubricated by something that looks like hot water.
One thought, radiators are now plastic and aluminium so are thermostats in 'modern' cars made without brass?
One thought, radiators are now plastic and aluminium so are thermostats in 'modern' cars made without brass?